A Building With a Surfing Past

6310 West Coast Highway.

It’s just a small, nondescript building that you may pass every day on your way into or out of town.

It now houses the Big Belly Deli, and that could be a story in itself because they make great sandwiches. The vibe is always positive and the beer is very cold, but the real story is about its past.

In the early ’60s Dale Velzy lost the rights to his surfboard label, Velzy surfboards, in a dispute with the IRS and was forced to start fresh with a different label. Dale chose to call his boards by the name, Surfboards by Dale, and resumed selling at this location in Newport.

Dale is renowned as one of the premier craftsmen in all of surf history and his presence in our town was an inspiration to many other shapers in our area. When Velzy ultimately moved to San Clemente, the vacancy soon was filled by Ramey Jay Surfboards with the young, new hot-shot shaper Mike Curtow (sorry about the spelling Mike) who after a couple of years moved to Santa Cruz and has been successfully building ever since.

Natural Progression surfboards moved in and had a good run for about four years or so before moving off to Hawaii and enjoying many more years of making great boards.

Huntington Beach mega personality Chuck Dent filled the void at 6310 West with his fun-loving ways and over-the-top pranks. I still remember Chuck sitting out front in his chair with his girlfriend, Star. They looked out of place, not being on Main Street HB where he had reigned as the king of surf for so many years.

Jerry Moe retailed his South Shore Surfboards at the location for a long time until a move to Oregon to build wind surfers and emjoy a more laid-back lifestyle took him away.

After that, I think it was Denny Smith and Sea Ski surfboards that continued the tradition for a couple years and then shut down.

I just thought this history should be remembered by the new surf generation, and I recommend that while you enjoy your food at Big Belly Deli, if you listen carefully, you might just hear the ghosts of surfers past in these hollowed walls.

Thanks for reading.  

-TK

TK Brimer is the operator of The Frog House surf shop in West Newport.

Finally, a School With Class

I could have been valedictorian, but coach, I thought you would understand. I was surfing for three straight hours and the surf was so good that I just couldn't get out of the water and come to your fitness class at OCC. Besides, I was getting better exercise paddling and swimming after my board repeatedly than we ever get here during our 45 minute period.

This plea, though repeated over and over during my long career at Orange Coast College, was never accepted as reasonable by my coaches, resulting in an F grade in PE during several semesters. In high school missing class to surf was often punished by suspension days, however those days off could then be used for more surf time, which was fine with me … until the my parents would discover my situation and demand I make amends.

Well that was the early ’60s and times have changed. Starting this week at OCC, PE161 surfing class is in session and it’s headed by coach Laird Hayes for the 15th year.

Can you imagine that? Kids get to come surf - and earn two units of college credit in the process. Well, not only might I have graduated with honors, but I would have a real shot at valedictorian if this had been the case when I was there.

In my day, surfing was often looked down on by teachers as a waste of time, practiced by losers and ne’er-do-wells. Today's students meet at the beach at 8 a.m. Tuesday and Thursday, or can take the longer Friday class, and are taught many aspects of the surf game including surf etiquette, wave selection, paddling techniques, appreciation of surfing, and the ocean environment.

Wow! I could have aced this class with my eyes closed.

This class is not just for beginners, but is enjoyed by surfers at all skill levels. Those with expert skills help in the teaching and those with entry level skills, and the result is not only positive for the beginners, but a plus to the entire surfing community as these groms learn etiquette at a faster rate than if they are left to be taught by disgruntled fellow surfers in the lineup.

I tip my hat to OCC and especially coach Hayes for this service, but only wish that this class had come along earlier in my life as it might have saved my academic career and sent me off to bigger and better things.      

Thank you for reading.

- TK

TK Brimer operates The Frog House surf shop in West Newport. Your positive comments are welcome at tkfrog@aol.com.

Ahhh, September

"It’s the most wonderful time of the year."

I know this familiar Christmas song is out of season at the moment, but it so accurately describes Newport in September that I just couldn't resist.

September morning in Newport: Waves, an empty beach - and plenty of parking. Photo by Eric “Frog” NelsenSchool has started and our guests from all over the country have gone home for the next nine months. No more crew-cab trucks that are jacked up so far that they look like they’ll fall over on their next turn. Plus they take up so much parking on our city streets that we locals have to keep looking for a spot even further from our homes. These vehicles are so much better suited for the Inland Empire, with its wide open spaces, that sometimes I wish they would just stay there.

I even found easy parking on street sweeping days this week.

Familiar faces are seen all over town as we regulars come out of hiding and once again frequent our familiar haunts.

Trash on the beach is almost no-existent, as we who love this town so much show the respect we have for our glorious surroundings.

Rent is reduced on those treasured beachfront homes from $3,000 per week to $3,000 per month, and some of us get to move into our fantasy living situation for yet another nine months.

The surf is often at its best this time of year and with the kids in school, us old guys enjoy the south swells without a crowd. And there’s the possibility of a Santa Ana wind to cleanly groom its shape.

Not to mention there’s no black ball flags to worry about.

These are the days that refresh my soul and remind me of just how lucky we are to live in Newport Beach.

Thanks for reading,

-TK

TK Brimer is the operator of The Frog House surf shop in West Newport.

Big Surf Is Different Ball Game

You can hear it said all over town by young and old, skilled and unskilled surfers: “Hope the surf comes up," or, "There’s a big swell coming our way," and even, "Pray for surf!" 

The excitement that spreads throughout the surf community by such visions can be felt anywhere surfers meet. To the outsider it may seem that we all wish we could ride 10- to 12-foot surf every day, but the reality of the situation is that when the big stuff arrives, most of us find a good reason not to be in the water.

The events of last week in our local waters are a good example of how it works.

By now you have all seen the photos in our paper and on TV of the big south swell that arrived with much fanfare.  

It is always noteworthy to me that the professional photographers that work for the mainstream media do such a poor job of actually showing the true size of the surf. They seem to be happy with showing up at the beach that is facing the wrong direction and not getting the brunt of the swell, or they’re not willing to wait long enough for a big set of waves to show up. So what we get is a photo of some guy kicking out as they attempt to show him at the highest point above the wave before he comes down.

We surfers would rather see someone actually riding the wave.

Riding larger surf requires a different skill set than our regular-size surf does. First, there is the fear factor that we must face. The larger surf demands respect from every one of us.

The amount of time you’re held under water increases as the wave size grows. Many surfers can hold their breath on land for 1, 2, or even 3 minutes. That changes when you introduce the adrenalin that flows uncontrollably through your body when you’re assaulted by thousands of gallons of violent white water. You’re spinning out of control, disoriented, your concept of up and down is skewed, and the ocean is denying your progress to the surface. By battling that adrenalin, we learn to force our bodies to relax and go into what I call “survival mode” while being held under water.

The art of paddling out in larger surf is a different ball game. The surfer must time the arrival of the set of waves to the beach and take advantage of the intervals to navigate successfully to the takeoff position outside of the impact zone, while fighting, or sometimes taking advantage of, strong currents.

Once in the lineup, the real strategy begins. We must position ourselves correctly to select the right wave. The right wave might be the first one in the set so as to avoid backwash from the previous wave. It might be the last wave of the set to enhance our chances to paddle back out after a clean ride without being crushed by the subsequent set waves. Or it might just be the wave that is approaching the sand bar at the correct angle to provide a good ride.

Experience is very valuable in this arena and explains why the older surfer is often prevalent in the lineup while the young hot shots are reduced in number. Less experienced riders find their way to the areas that don't receive the full force of the swell and enjoy themselves while working on skills for that next big wave opportunity.

As the swell ends and the surf returns to more normal size, we all surf together again and enjoy telling stories about how we ripped it up on the big stuff. It was a great week of surf with no serious injuries that I’ve heard of, and for that, we are all grateful.

Thanks for reading and remember: catch a wave and you’re sitting on top of the world.

-TK

TK Brimer is the operator of the Frog House surf shop in West Newport. Send positive feed back to tkfrog@aol.com.

Who Gets the Wave

As you stand on the beach looking out at a group of 20 or 30 surfers, they may appear to be almost not moving. Some talk among themselves while others look to the horizon in anticipation of the next set of waves.

On one bright sunny day, a watery hump appears and moves towards the pack. An almost unnoticed shuffling takes place as surfers jockey for position and the right of way to enjoy the thrill of interacting with this much desired gift of the sea.

The crystal blue hump rises up as it encounters the sand bottom, forming a steep watery face. A lone surfer paddles almost effortlessly and stands up well positioned on his board. With the flick of his ankles he turns up the face of the wave and top turns, releasing a beautiful white spray. He then descends to the bottom of the wave and, turning, transforms his downward speed to lateral speed and races down the line of the wave.

An intricate dance of avoidance is performed as he maneuvers through the human pack of surfers.

As the translucent wave loses size in the shallows near shore, the surfer makes his last turn and kicks out the back of the wave ending his ride. He then begins his slow paddle back out to the pack where he will wait his turn for the next wave.

To the outside observer it might appear that he got that wave by a stroke of luck, but to the dedicated surfer it is obvious that he most likely earned that wave by being in the best shape physically and being positioned within the pack most effectively.

His surfing ability and reputation, both observed on this day of surfing and for many years at this surf spot, established him as the alpha male of the pack. Not unlike wolves, the surf pack operates on who is the strongest performer in the group.

The alpha gets the first pick.

Not to say that the beginner can’t have any waves, but those on the lower level of the totem pole battle for the leftovers after those above them have had their share. As in the wild this food chain is very complex and foreign to the outside observer. Your age, surfing ability, the way you interact with the alpha male and others in the pack, and their familiarity with you are but a few of the nuances that determine your spot in the lineup.

Of course any fool can fall off a log and get the wave of the day, but overall the best riders dominate the surf spot day in and day out. The old guy on the long board wearing the sun hat and demonstrating a lack of paddling ability doesn't have a chance.

Teenagers battle among themselves with unending energy and resemble rams butting heads to establish dominance, but they will be no threat to the alpha male for some years yet.

The beginners don't even know that there is a hierarchy and sometimes may be in the way, but otherwise don't affect the pack.

This interaction between surfers is part of the fun and my observation is that those who show courtesy to surfers below their station are the people that deserve to move up the chain and perhaps someday lead their pack.

Thanks for listening.

-TK

TK Brimer is the operator of the Frog House surf shop in West Newport.